DINING REVIEW: Le Bistro

While it owes its origins to small, simple chef-owned establishments in Paris, it has been co-opted as an easy way to gussy up every lackluster American corporate venture from meat-heavy Chinese chains to dismal airport hotel restaurants. No doubt, once we have sucked all the life and meaning out of the word, we will sink our teeth into a new label, maybe brasserie.

In the meantime, one Colorado Springs restaurant is infusing the original meaning and life back into the idea. Fittingly, the place is called Le Bistro.

Technically, Le Bistro is not new. It opened its doors this spring in the quaint 1890s Victorian that for decades housed La Petite Maison.

Owner and Chef Henri Chapéront took over Maison in 2005 and closed it in 2009 to become chef for a planned boutique hotel in the Mining and Exchange building downtown. Needless to say, the prospects for boutique hotels are not what they once were. The chef’s role in the hotel fell through as the project stalled and he went back to his old house with some new tricks.

Le Bistro combines classic French cuisine with the chef’s love of detail and fresh, local ingredients that made Maison a favorite with a dining room face-lift and more modestly priced bistro menu. The results are so successful, they’re bound to attract new disciples.

In Maison’s makeover, out went the 1980s pastel paint scheme and wall-to-wall carpet. In came hip shades of green and gray and gorgeous, refinished century-old wood floors. The chef kept the lovely patio, where diners can lull in the dappled shade of maples and strings of lights straight out of a Renoir. There is also an area for Pétanque, the French version of Bacci.

I sat on the patio admiring the dinner menu’s bistro transformation. Gone are most of the high-priced, special-occasion entrees such as seared black grouper with a lime beurre blanc ($25). In their place are more moderately priced bistro classics, such as steak frites ($18), chicken breast nicoise ($14) and even a buffalo burger ($12). Chapéront is also for the first time serving lunch, with entrees priced from $7.50 to $12.50.

The new dinner menu is a success. New England Cod ($15) comes perfectly cooked, encrusted with fresh herbs and just the right kiss of garlic, olive oil and butter that let the good fish shine through. A steak au poivre — a true bistro classic — ($18) is cooked perfectly tender and flavorful, then doused with a rich sauce of brandy, demi-glace, butter and cream.

Better yet, they come with sinfully good home-cut frites, double-fried in the classic Belgian method until rich and golden.

Even departures from classic French feel right at home. A grilled duck breast ($18) gets an Asian pan sauce of soy, teriyaki, plum sauce and freshly crushed coriander that make the bird bold and bright. A side of seasoned basmati rice serves as a perfect escort.

Dessert includes some fetching choices, such as homemade mocha ice cream ($6), cardamom crème brulée ($6.50) or not-too-sweet Fresh Berries with Lavender Crème Anglaise ($6).

Lunch still shows its newness. Service tends to be overburdened, forgetful and too slow for the employed. On a recent sweltering day, we waited too long for drinks and refills. An appetizer of hot goat cheese in puff pastry (which was fantastic) did not show up until the entrees were almost finished, and then still showed up on the bill. And some of the entrees need dressing up.

The croissant sandwiches ($7.50) do not use local and excellent bread from La Baguette, just down the street. They should. The buffalo burger ($10 at lunch) is on the dry side and shows no flourish from the chef. I get the idea he put it on the menu because he felt he had to, not because he wanted to. And the crab cakes ($12) come on a miserly collection of wilted greens. A generous salad would be a better choice.

But these are small quibbles with such a good restaurant. The new menu and lower prices go a long way to restoring some respectability to the word bistro.

LE BISTRO
4 STARS out of 5
(Magnifique!)
Address: 1015 W. Colorado Ave.
Contact: 634-0400, lebistrocs.com
Hours: Lunch 11 a.m.–2 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays; dinner 5–10 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays
Entrees: $7-$32
Vegetarian: Yes
Alcohol: Full bar
Credit cards: Yes