Destination: Leadville

LEADVILLE - This small community has rapidly transformed from a fading industrial mining town that built the fortunes of the Tabors, Boettchers and Guggenheims into one of the most quietly vibrant and affordable mountain towns in Colorado — and the word might be getting out a little too fast.

For example, Lance Armstrong has been a regular at the Leadville Trail 100 (coming up on Aug. 14). Such instant notoriety has had a palpable effect on the tiny town of around 3,000.

Now, on any given summer day, myriad mountain bikers in Lycra with iPhones sip chai lattes along Harrison Street — the charming and well-preserved Victorian-era main drag — which Oscar Wilde once crossed from the Tabor Opera House to the Silver Dollar Saloon to drink whiskey with the miners.

This commingling of Leadville’s fascinating history and its hip, health-conscious present give it more of a tiny-city feel than anything so quaint as a “town.”

Fourth-generation Leadvillean Bill Morris calls it “an urban-industrial area in the mountains.” Indeed, Leadville is such a complex place, with so much to do, that your head might start to spin from the more than 10,152 feet of altitude.

A foot tour of the side streets is a great way to get acquainted with the texture of the town, past and present. Many of the beautiful old mining-era Victorians have been restored and renovated. A quick glance at the price sheets will confirm your suspicion that the gentrification process is already in full swing. Though many of the homes are now weekend getaways for the well-to-do, longtime locals, many of whom still work for the Climax molybdenum mine, still live in town, and their faces and many churches reflect the lingering diversity of the mining community.

And everyone, local or not, seems happy: “Enjoy the best place in Colorado,” says the bearded young man at the mountaineering store as we walk by.

Will do, but where to begin?

SEE AND DO

Chamber of Commerce

809 Harrison Ave.; 1-719-486-3900; leadvilleusa.com

For history buffs, Leadville has excellent museums: Heritage Museum, Tabor Home, Healy House and Dexter Cabin, Tabor Opera House, Matchless Mine and National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum. Pick up a walking-tour map and buy a “Passport” at the chamber that includes admission to all for $30 (adults), $25 (seniors), and $14 (kids 5-12)..

Heritage Museum

102 E. Ninth St.; Open May-October; 1-719-486-1878

Don’t miss the sugar cube replica of the 1896 Ice Palace and the 10th Mountain Division paraphernalia and history.

The Matchless Mine

1 1/4 miles east on E. Seventh St.; Open May-September; 1-719-486-1229

The history is palpable with remnants of Baby Doe Tabor’s rise and fall still on display here.

National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum

120 W. Ninth St.; open year-round; 1-719-486-1229

Fascinating overview of mining techniques and paraphernalia from past to present; replica mines you can walk through; collection of minerals from around the world.

Tabor Opera House

308 Harrison Ave.; Open May-October; closed Sundays; 1-719-486-8409

Houdini, Oscar Wilde, Jack Dempsey and many others graced the stage of this grand old opera house.

Leadville, Colorado & Southern Railroad

326 E. Seventh St.; 1-866-386-3936; leadville-train .com

Narrated rides in open cars through the scenic Arkansas Valley.

Camp Hale; 17 miles north of Leadville on U.S. 24, 7 miles past Tennessee Pass

Although not much remains of the 10th Mountain Division’s camp, there are interpretive signs and a monument at Ski Cooper.

SHOPPING

Along Harrison Avenue, you’ll find antiques stores galore, a fantastic book shop, a rock shop, mountain sports clothing made onsite at Melanzana, the usual tourist tchotchke’s — there’s a little bit of everything up and down Harrison Avenue.

OUTDOOR FUN

Hiking, mountain biking and, in the winter, Nordic skiing are the outdoor sports of choice in and around Leadville. Mounts Massive and Evans (the highest of Colorado’s 14ers) are also just short drives away.

Mineral Belt Trail; access points surrounding town (just ask); 12.5 miles paved and ADA accessible. This trail is really the crown jewel of Leadville’s outdoor culture throughout the year. Biking and walking throughout summer that loops around the historical district and past many of the old mines. It’s groomed for Nordic skiing and skating in winter.

You can get on the trail from almost any location (the semi-official starting point is near Colorado Mountain College at the south end of town) around town (just ask) and there’s an interactive map online at www .mineralbelttrail.com. Most recommend traveling clockwise, though you can go in either direction.

Hiking/Mountain Biking Trails; Check out the website visitleadvilleco.com to see the dizzying array of trails and races available in the stacked loop system around Leadville that has rides and hikes for all levels. There’s also camping, rafting, fishing and lots more summer fun to be had.

BIG EVENTS

Boom Days, first weekend in August, throughout Leadville. A three-day celebration of the area’s mining heritage with everything from historical re-enactments to a Pack Burro Race

Leadville Trail 100 mountain bike race; Aug. 14, beginning at 6 a.m.; leadvilletrail 100.com

The mountain bike race made famous by Lance Armstrong, it’s 50 miles out and back with 14,000 feet in elevation gain and a 12-hour limit. Come to see Lance Armstrong and Levi Leipheimer, but cheer for Coloradan Dave Wiens.

BITES

Provin’ Grounds Coffee & Bakery

508 Harrison Ave., 1-719-486-0797

Being able to bake at this altitude and do it well is amazing. Great coffee-and-pastry spot, but it’s usually packed on the weekends.

The Golden Burro

710 Harrison Ave., 1-719-486-1239

If diner-style is more your speed, this a good place for any meal.

The Grill Bar & Café

715 Elm St., 1-719-486-9930

Locals will all tell you this is the place to eat Mexican food. The house specialty of stuffed sopapillas are huge and will feed at least two people. Be prepared to wait and have a margarita while you do so.

Silver Dollar Saloon

315 Harrison Ave., 1-719-486-9914

Why not choke back a shot of whisky, enjoy a chicken-fried chicken sandwich and soak in the memory of Oscar Wilde’s 1882 stop here at this historical saloon, which adorns its walls with historical pictures?

BEDS

Delaware Hotel

700 Harrison Ave.; 1-800-748-2004; delaware hotel.com

If you’re looking for the full historical feel of Leadville, we recommend booking a room at the Delaware Hotel (the last of its kind in town). The rooms have a B&B feel with many original features and period décor, each one named after a person or place of local fame, such as “Ski Cooper,” “Silver Dollar Tabor” and so forth. You can take a tour of the available rooms before you choose as you squeeze through hallways jam-packed with antique furniture and display cases full of period clothing. Rooms range from $60 to $200, depending on how many folks are in your party (no mountain bikes in rooms!).

Alps Motel

207 Elm St.; 1-800-818-2577; alpsmotel.com

With a reputation for cleanliness and affordability, this is the place to stay if you’re just here for the recreation. Room prices range from $53 to $100.