Destination: Blackhawk

BLACK HAWK/CENTRAL CITY - These gambling town siblings used to be too far from Colorado Springs. What was the point of going to Black Hawk or Central City? If we wanted Western-style gambling for a day trip, we could get to Cripple Creek in just over an hour.

Of course, Central City has the opera, and, for opera lovers, the lavish productions have certainly been worth the trip. But until the town can grow from a day-trip destination to a one-or-two-night destination, most Springs residents aren’t interested.

Well, now Ameristar Casino Resort and Spa has changed the game, and the valley doesn’t look nearly as far.

Ameristar’s casino, an attractive, open, two-story deal built around an ultra-sleek-Vegas-style bar, opened in 2001. Then, in November, Ameristar unveiled its not-so-secret-weapon: a towering 33-story, 536-room mega resort and spa.

This isn’t just the best luxury hotel in Black Hawk. It’s among the top 10 hotels in the state. With a large, elegant rooftop pool and hot tubs overlooking the rest of the valley, a spa on par with the Brown Palace’s, and rooms as stylishly contemporary as the Westin in Avon, Ameristar has created a destination all by itself.

Rates start at $99 a night and launch into the $500 range for the super fancy suites.

Does the Ameristar have enough going on to keep you entertained for a couple of days? Certainly, if you’re seriously into gambling or just want to hang out with a drink by the pool or in the spa.

Otherwise, you’ll venture into Black Hawk and Central City. What you’ll discover are more slot machines, roulette wheels, craps and poker tables … and a few unexpected finds as well.

 
LAY OF THE LAND

When gambling came to the former gold camps of Black Hawk and Central City in 1992, Central City had a tremendous advantage. Its many gorgeous brick buildings on its largely intact main street could quickly be turned into casinos. The boom was on.

Black Hawk, on the other hand, consisted of a few old historical buildings along with lots of trailers and open land. It was slow to take advantage of the new gold rush.

But when the big-money mega-casino investors looked for a spot in Colorado to build a mini-Vegas, Black Hawk looked mighty attractive, especially after it lifted bans on casino parking garages.

Today, Black Hawk is beginning to look more like Reno, Nev., than Cripple Creek or Central City. Glitzy casinos on steroids, many with escalators and attached walkways, line the main street.

Meanwhile, Central City is making ambitious plans to beautify its main street with wider, bumped out brick sidewalks, among other things. It’s also planning an expanded summer festival lineup.

So, if you like to walk around and explore, Central City offers more shops and cultural attractions, while Black Hawk offers more of a casino-to-casino indoor stroll.

 
A FEW BITES

As in Las Vegas, Reno and Lake Tahoe, Nev., Black Hawk’s major casinos boast the big, all-you-can-eat buffets. They’re OK. You can find a staggering variety of food, though the quality isn’t up to Vegas’ standards yet.

The valley’s best eats can be found at Rouge, created by Denver star chef Kevin Taylor. But this upscale eatery, located in the Teller House of Central City, is open only during the eight weeks of the Central City Opera’s season.

Ameristar also operates a good steakhouse, the Timberline Grill, and the Lodge Casino has a nice noodle house called Pho.

I’ve also heard good things about the Shamrock Café at Fitzgeralds Casino in Black Hawk.

On your way into the valley, you’ll see a competition for the cheapest prime rib dinner. (Be careful: Some of the really cheap deals require you to rack up points gambling, which could end up being ridiculously expensive.)


MORE ARTS AND CULTURE

Gilpin Arts Association Art Gallery

117 Eureka St., Central City, 1-303-582-5952; gilpinarts.org

You enter through the old jail house (yes, there’s still an original cell down there), and climb the stairs to a former courtroom. It is a fascinating repurposing of a historical structure (Washington Hall). The latest juried show showcases a variety of regional artists. As you’d expect, pretty landscape paintings dominate, but there are a few surrealistic works and some stunning photographs.

The building isn’t winterized, so in the fall, “we give it back to the chipmunks,” says curator Sandy Early.


The Gilpin History Museum

228 High St., Central City, 1-303-582-5283; gilpinhistory.org

A converted school house now displays various 1860s scenes (including a bordello, but don’t worry, it’s G-rated) with props and mannequins.


Coeur d’ Alene Mine Shaft House

Academy Hill, Central City, 1-303-582-5283

Towering above Central City on Academy Hill, this original 1885 mine produced ore until 1940. There are outdoor, self-guided interpretive tours.


Thomas House

209 Eureka St., Central City

A preserved 1867 Greek Revival home, restored and turned into a museum
 

BIG EVENTS

Madame Lou Bunch Day and Brass Bed Race

5-10 p.m. Saturday in Central City

This festival, now in its 36th year, honors a famous madam from the  town’s past with a bed race, a costume contest and various parties.

 
Gilpin County Film Festival

July 31, in and around Central City Opera House; gilpinhistory.org

Now in its second year, this one-day festival presented by the Denver Film Society will include a U.S. premiere of “David Hockney: The Colors of Music,” a portrait of one of the famous set makers; silent films shot in Colorado; and a new historical documentary by Colorado filmmaker Jim Havey.

Passes will start at $18.

 

NIGHTLIFE

Here’s where both towns need to bring up their game. With the exception of the Lodge Casino in Black Hawk, which has a comedy night on Thursdays, entertainment generally consists of Front Range club bands.

And, of course, Central City has the opera.

And, oh, yeah, gambling.