THE WINE GUY: Value wine recommendations for the holiday season

This time of year people are more likely than the rest of the year to be buying wine for larger groups of people — for holiday parties, receptions, and family gatherings. So, they are more likely to be in the market for good, lower-priced wines.

It can be daunting, though, to know which wines to choose among rows and rows in your local wine shop. In this column, I have assembled for you a shopping list of reliable, lower-priced California wines that would serve you and your guests well. My criteria for picking such wines begin with varietal accuracy; if it says cabernet sauvignon, it should taste like cabernet sauvignon. I also look for clean flavors and some component besides the fruit to add interest.

Nowadays, most national publications have raised their cutoff for such wines to $25. I’m not willing to go that high but I have set my limit at $20. Although it’s not easy — there still are way too many California wines in this price range that are not as good as the should be — good California wines at modest prices can be found. This column gives you some good places to start.

For the reds, expect aromas and flavors of red, blue and black fruits and berries. Occasionally, there will be hints of dried herbs, even tobacco, mint, forest, brown spices, and pepper.

With cabernet sauvignon (and blends based on the grape) I look for a firm structure, currant and dark berry fruits, and at least some, though soft, tannins.
• 2010 Redtree California ($8)
• 2010 Buena Vista Sonoma ($15)
• 2009 Lange Twins “Estate Grown” Lodi ($15)
• 2010 Wilson Daniels Central Coast ($16)
• 2010 J. Lohr “Seven Oaks” ($17)
• 2009 Francis Coppola Diamond Collection “Claret” (cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, malbec, cabernet franc, $20)

It can be tough to find good values among merlots, especially in this price range. Still, I anticipate a softer mouthfeel, with nice blueberry and plum fruit.
• 2010 Bonterra Mendocino ($14)
• 2008 Benziger Sonoma County ($16)
• 2010 Folie a Deux Sonoma County ($18)
• 2010 Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve ($19)

Pinot noir is even more of a challenge when it comes to finding good values. But occasionally I find a wine that meets my expectations for pure cherry fruit, with earth and brown spice notes.
• 2010 Echelon California ($14)
• 2010 Garnet Monterey ($15)
• 2010 Buena Vista Sonoma ($15)
• 2010 Pali “Riviera” Sonoma Coast ($19)

For zinfandel, you most likely will encounter brash raspberry and blackberry fruit, peppery spice, and what I can only describe as an untamed character.
• 2010 Bonterra Mendocino ($14)
• 2010 Buena Vista Sonoma ($15)
• 2009 Folie a Deux Dry Creek Valley ($18)

If you are looking for more variety, here are some other reds I think you and you guests would enjoy.
• 2009 Matchbook Dunnigan Hills Tempranillo ($15)
• 2010 J. Lohr “South Ridge” Syrah ($15)
• 2010 Clayhouse Paso Robles Syrah ($15)
• Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve “Summation” (zinfandel, syrah, merlot, $17)
• 2010 Francis Coppola Diamond Collection “Red Blend” (zinfandel, syrah, petite sirah, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, $18)

For whites, expect the fruits to be more of the yellow, green and orange varieties.

Occasionally, you might discern a little creamy oak, fresh herbs or flowery touches.
With chardonnay, I look for citrus or tropical fruits, good acidity and a touch of creaminess.
• 2011 McManis River Junction ($12)
• 2011 Bonterra Mendocino ($14)
• 2010 Markham Napa Valley ($18)

Sauvignon blanc is distinctive for its noticeably herbal character; there also should be bracing acidity and fresh citrus fruit.
• 2011 Buena Vista Sonoma ($15)
• 2011 Rodney Strong Charlotte’s Home Vineyard ($15)
• 2011 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($20)

Finally, two other wines worth seeking out: the Clayhouse Adobe White ($14) and Adobe Pink ($14). The white is a blend of viognier, sauvignon blanc, and grenache blanc, while the pink is a blend of mourvedre, grenache noir, and syrah. Both are fruitful wines ideal for any occasion.
Happy holiday wine shopping!
—
Rich Mauro has been writing about wine since 1995. He is a policy analyst for the Denver Regional Council of Governments. Reach him at rich@rmpeoplespalate.com or 30 S. Prospect St., Colorado Springs 80903.